2 parcels – in the plain. 80% destemmed, not much pigeage as Joseph prefers a remontage so as not to extract too much from the stems. Modest colour. Large-scaled aromatics – plenty of graphite minerality mixed with flowers too. Mouth-filling but opens with a nice balance of flavour and structure – this is very well-made. A slight smokiness – perhaps from barrel in the complex middle and finishing flavours. Broad and impressively persistent finishing too – ‘the challenge was only to extract the good in 21 – I could have added colour by extracting more but I don’t think I would have kept all the fruit.’ BILL NANSON, BURGUNDY REPORT