This is Katharina Prüm’s desert island category. Light in body but intense in flavour, the wines deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and slate-like minerality, unique to the Mosel. As always, there is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily more overt sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table—and she should know!

Again, we have excellent transparency and expression of place alongside more savoury depth. Prüm describes the ‘21 Graacher and Whelener as a super classical expression of their vineyards, and this year see a wonderful cameo from the Bernkasteler Lay. This vineyard is traditionally bottled at the Auslese level. It’s interesting to note, too, that the Graacher is considerably more open than the Wehlener at this stage—it is usually the other way around. As the notes below attest, 2021 is a stunning vintage for Prüm’s Spätlese. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades. 

“The 2021er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is really restrained and almost non-saying at this early stage, but already hints at the complexity to come as it reveals after a few minutes very delicate notes of whipped almond cream, lily flowers, vineyard peach, minty herbs, smoke, candied grapefruit, and quite some fine spices. The wine proves creamy yet intense and dynamic on the palate. It proves very focused and already hugely long. This will need quite some time to reveal all its facets, but the potential is immense. 2034-2056” 95 points, Jean Fisch and David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines