Region: Geelong
Variety: Shiraz
What's in the glass: Shiraz fruit comes from the original By Farr vineyard, planted in 1994. It lies on a north-facing slope, and the red volcanic soil has a base of limestone with deep-set sandstone. This is always so, so good. It’s complex which I love, as so often this grape is one dimensional. There is more than a note of ripe fruit, there is graphite, black olives, it feels silky yet there is a note of ocean spray, a faint yet lovely salinity, then follows the spice. There is so much going on in this wine, and I know it’s a tired saying, but this is undoubtedly a Pinot drinker’s Shiraz, and by that I mean it is endlessly interesting, I’m not saying that it is light. The texture is perfect in that it has intensity without being flabby, and I think this is too often overlooked. Shiraz need not be a fruit bomb as it masks all the good parts this grape has to offer. Call it Rhone-like ifyou want, I know that will draw criticism, but few Australian Shiraz come close to that level of finesse, texture and savoriness. It’s By Farr Shiraz, that’s a far better way to describe it. BEN KNIGHT, CRITIC
Farming: Sustainable
Vegan Friendly: Yes
