Screwcap. Alain Graillot’s 2021 white Crozes-Hermitage is a deliciously silky yet vibrant blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne, whole-bunch pressed and naturally fermented in a mix of one-year-old 600-liter demi-muids and stainless steel. The fruit comes from a 2.7-hectare plot on the deep alluvial soils of Pont-de-l’Isère, in the southern sector of the Crozes-Hermitage appellation. The nature of the soils and low yields from the old vines (now reaching 40 years of age) means that Maxime compensates for the richness of fruit, in particular from the Marsanne, by arresting malolactic conversion to maintain freshness ("I don't have any Chenin!" Maxime opines). He bottles under screwcap for the same reason. The new release is amply textured, with attractive apricot and wildflower aromas and a nutty, complex palate draped in silky white stone fruits, finishing with grip and the gentle warmth of ripe Marsanne.