This year’s wine is drawn from Leroux’s estate vineyards in Meursault—Les Millerands, Sous la Velle and Les Belles Côtes—supplemented by purchased fruit from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune. Even so, Leroux managed to make just 80 hectolitres. Unlike the vast majority of Bourgogne (from the foot of the hill, and across the D974), Leroux’s estate vines grow on limestone-rich terroirs, situated below the village-level vines of Meursault. There is also a bit of Chardonnay from Vosne-Romanée, of all places.

As usual, the wine was raised in 12- and 15-hectolitre foudres and 600-litre demi-muids before finishing its maturation in stainless steel for four months. The large-format vessels allow Leroux to work with lower levels of sulphur. This is brilliant for its level; pithy, juicy and full of life, with a long, grapefruity finish.